Fabric Inspection | Methods for Defect Inspection on Printed and Dyed Fabrics
Printed and dyed fabric refers to textile fabric that has been processed by printing, dyeing and other processes. It is usually woven into grey fabric first, and then given patterns or colors through printing and dyeing technology. When inspecting printed and dyed fabric, how should its surface defects be inspected?
1. Inspection conditions and operating regulations
1.1 Inspection conditions
-During inspection, the illumination on the fabric surface shall not be less than 750lx, and the distance between eyes and fabric surface shall be 55cm to 60cm.
-When using the platform for inspection, use 3 to 4 40W blue fluorescent tubes with covers, and the distance between the inspection light source and the cloth surface is 1.0m to 1.2m.
-When using a fabric inspection machine for inspection, the inspection plate angle is 45° and the maximum line speed of the fabric inspection machine is 40m/min.
1.2 Operating regulations
- Use fabric inspection machine or platform for inspection.
- Check the defects on the fabric surface with the front side of the fabric as the standard (the side with the cover print is the back side). Twill fabric: The left oblique "" is the front side for yarn fabrics, and the right oblique "" is the front side for thread fabrics. The front side of the fabric can also be confirmed according to customer requirements.
- Use a measuring tool to measure the length of each defect on the fabric surface. The graduation value of the measuring tool is 1mm.
-Color difference is assessed according to GB/T250.
-When there is a conflict between the inspection of the fabric inspection machine and the inspection of the platform, the inspection of the platform shall prevail.
2. Inspection methods
2.1 Inspection of local defects
Scoring method
A 4-point scoring system is used, and the scoring rules are as shown in Table 1.
Table 1 4-point scoring system
|
Defect length |
score |
|
Defects are 8.0cm and below |
1 point |
|
Defects are above 8.0cm to 16.0cm |
2 points |
|
Defects above 16.0cm to 24.0cm |
3 points |
|
Defects above 24.0cm |
4 points |
Holes, regardless of size, are scored 4 points; damage defects within 2.0 cm from the edge are scored 2 points.
Superior products are not allowed to have a single local defect or damage defect with a score of 4 points.
First-class products are not allowed to have damaging defects.
For details of fabric defects, please see Appendix A; for descriptions of defect names, please see Appendix B.
Defect marking method
The number of defects is stipulated as follows:
- If the length of the piece (section) is less than 30m, one defect is allowed;
- For pieces (sections) with a length of 30m or more but less than 60m, two defects are allowed;
- For pieces (sections) with a length of 60m or more but less than 80m, 4 defects are allowed;
- For pieces (sections) with a length of 80m or more but less than 100m, 6 defects are allowed;
- For pieces (sections) 100m or longer, 8 marking defects are allowed.
The defect range is specified in Table 2.
Table 2 Defect range regulations
|
Serial number |
Defect name and degree |
Number of defects |
|
1 |
3 or more holes up to 2.0 cm, broken edges over 30.0 cm, ruffles over 18.0 cm, and sundries over 0.3 cm thick |
1 |
|
2 |
Obvious linear defects in the warp direction over 20.0cm, obvious strip defects over 4.0cm, obvious sparse and dense defects, saw-like defects, and obvious block defects over half the width |
1 |
|
3 |
Scattered defects within 0.2 cm that affect the appearance, 15 for dark colors and 10 for light colors |
1 |
|
4 |
Warp direction within 20.0cm, serial number 1, 2 defects within 4 |
1 |
Defect length discount regulations: If the defect length does not exceed 20.0cm, a length discount of 20.0cm will be given; if the defect length is between 20.0cm and 50.0cm, a discount will be given based on the actual length of the defect.
Holes larger than 2.0 cm, stop gaps during dyeing and finishing, and serious defects larger than 50.0 cm in the warp direction cannot be marked as defects and should be cut.
The defect position should be on the edge of the fabric at the corresponding position where the defect exists.
2.2 Inspection of scattered defects
The inspection method for scattered defects can be based on the severity of the defects, the overall effect on the appearance, and the downgrading of product standards.
2.3 Defect measurement
- The defect length is measured by the maximum length in the warp or weft direction.
- If the length of the warp defect exceeds 1m, the excess part shall be measured separately and scored again according to Table 1.
- Any defects that are curved will be measured according to the maximum distance they actually affect; overlapping defects will be scored according to their severity.
- If various defects exist at the same time within 1m in the warp direction, they shall be measured and scored cumulatively. The maximum score shall not exceed 4 points; the maximum number of defects shall not exceed 1.
- For scattered stains that are difficult to count and measure, they should be measured separately according to their maximum length and width, and the scores should be accumulated.
- In the same piece of cloth, when there are the same local defects, the cumulative score shall not exceed the downgrade limit of the defect. If there are other local defects that should be scored cumulatively, the total score of the cloth can be the starting point of the downgraded grade plus the cumulative score of the local defects.
Appendix A Specific contents of various fabric defects
A.1 Warp defects
Specific contents of warp defects: bamboo knots, thick warps, wrong thread density, wrong threading, reed path, wrong threading, multi-strand warps, double warps, tightness of parallel lines, loose warps, tight warps, hanging warps, warp shrinkage ripples, broken warps, broken defects, sunken yarn, star jumps, skipped yarns, cotton balls, knots, side support defects, dragging yarns, poor finishing, wrong fibers, oil stains, oil warps, rust warps, rust stains, non-fading color warps, non-fading color stains, water stains, stains, starch spots, cloth flowers, oil flower yarn, cat ears, concave edges, rotten edges, flower warps, long strip shadows, aurora, needle paths, wear marks, bad twist edges, square eyes, wooden roller wrinkles, lotus leaf edges, hair spots, partial velvet, reverse velvet, thick and thin sections, knife paths, side support marks, strips
Flowers, wrinkle marks, inconsistent patterns, uneven printing and dyeing, cotton knots and impurities, deep and shallow defects, fish scale spots, missed cuts, patching strips, and velvet warp repairs.
A.2 Weft defects
The specific contents of weft defects include wrong weft (including thick, thin, tight and loose), uneven yarn, missing weft, double weft, weft shrinkage, burr edge, cloud weaving, weaving of debris, flower weft, oily weft, rusty weft, non-fading colored weft, coal ash yarn, hundred feet, broken silk, thrown flower, missing core silk, hairy silk, shrinkage (printing) of starting warp, and brushing of hair block.
A.3 Crossbar
The specific contents of the horizontal bar: removal marks, sparse wefts, dense paths, joints, knife bars, and inaccurate pattern alignment.
A.4 Serious defects
Specific contents of serious defects: holes, broken edges, skipped patterns, sparse warps, warp shrinkage waves (starting from three strands), 3 hanging warps in parallel, loose warps (including 1 to 2 good yarns separated), unconnected shuttles, rotten edges of 1 cm or more, metal debris woven in, missing lint, short lint, starch spots and mildew spots that affect the organization, poor finishing that damages the bottom of the cloth, 10 knots or edge support defects in the entire 8 cm width of the warp direction, and exposed bottom of the core-spun yarn.
A.5 Others
A.5.1 Among the warp defects and weft defects, some defects are common to both categories, such as slubs, yarn skipping, etc. In the classification, only warp defects are included. If weft defects occur, they should be scored according to weft defects.
A.5.2 If there are defects on the fabric that are not included in the above, they will be scored as similar defects.
Appendix B Explanation of defect names
Table B.1 Defect Name Description
|
Serial number |
Defect name |
Defect Description |
|
1 |
Bamboo |
Thick places in short sections of yarn |
|
2 |
Thick Sutra |
The warp yarn with a diameter of 5 cm or more is woven into the cloth |
|
3 |
Dislocation density |
Wrong process standard for line density |
|
4 |
Comprehensive wear |
The weft is not drawn in accordance with the process requirements, resulting in disordered fabric texture |
|
5 |
Reed Road |
The warp direction of the fabric is uneven in stripes |
|
6 |
Wrong threading of the reed |
The reeding was not done according to the process requirements, resulting in uneven arrangement of the warp yarns on the cloth surface. |
|
7 |
Multi-strand |
Two or more single yarns are combined |
|
8 |
Double |
In a single yarn (thread) fabric, two warp yarns are woven in parallel. |
|
9 |
Tightness of parallel line |
Uneven tension when twisting single yarn into ply yarn |
|
10 |
Songjing |
Part of the warp yarn tension is relaxed and woven into the cloth |
|
11 |
Tight Warp |
Some warp yarns have too much twist |
|
12 |
Hanging Sutra |
Some warp yarns are too tense in the fabric |
|
13 |
Shrinkage Corrugation |
Part of the warp yarn relaxes due to unexpected tension, making the fabric surface wavy and uneven |
|
14 |
Menopause |
Warp yarn breakage in fabric |
|
15 |
Break |
The broken ends of the warp yarn are woven into the cloth |
|
16 |
Sinking yarn |
Due to poor lifting of the heddle, the warp yarn floats on the cloth surface |
|
17 |
Star Jump |
1 warp or weft yarn skips 2 to 4 yarns to form a star-shaped pattern |
|
18 |
Skipping yarn |
1-2 warp yarns or 5 or more weft yarns are skipped |
|
19 |
Cotton balls |
The fibers on the yarn are spherical |
|
20 |
Knot |
Knots that affect the quality of subsequent processes |
|
twenty one |
Defects in side stays |
The temple or licker roller causes the yarn in the fabric to fuzz or break. |
|
twenty two |
Drag yarn |
Uncut yarn ends hanging on the fabric or edge of the fabric |
|
twenty three |
Poor trimming |
The fabric surface is scraped, wrinkled, uneven, warp and weft yarns are unevenly crossed or not trimmed properly |
|
twenty four |
Wrong fiber |
Foreign fiber yarn weaving |
|
25 |
Grease stains |
Traces left by oil stains on fabrics |
|
26 |
Oil |
The traces left by the warp after being stained with oil |
|
27 |
Rust Sutra |
Traces of warp stained by rust |
|
28 |
Rust Stains |
Traces left by rust on fabric |
|
29 |
Colorfast |
Colored warp yarn that is stained and cannot be washed out |
|
30 |
No fading stains |
Stains that cannot be washed off |
|
31 |
Water stains |
Traces left by water on fabric |
|
32 |
Stains |
Marks left by stains on fabrics |
|
33 |
Plaque |
Pulp blocks attached to the fabric surface affect the fabric structure |
|
34 |
Flowering cloth |
Foreign fibers or colored fibers are mixed into the yarn and woven into the cloth |
|
35 |
Oil flower yarn |
Oily fibers are attached to the yarn during the spinning process |
|
36 |
Cat ears |
Protruding from the edge of the fabric 0.5cm or more |
|
37 |
Concave Edge |
Recessed edge 0.5cm or more |
|
38 |
Bad Edge |
Single broken weft yarn in the side weave, 3 or more weft yarns broken in one place |
|
39 |
Flower Sutra |
Due to the change of cotton composition, the color of the cloth is different |
|
40 |
Long shadow |
Due to the mixing of different batches of yarn or other factors, the warp stripes on the fabric surface are caused |
|
41 |
aurora |
Traces left by mechanical friction on the fabric |
|
42 |
Needle Path |
Due to the faulty automatic stop device of weft break, dense needle marks in the warp direction are caused. |
|
43 |
Wear marks |
The trace of a straight stripe formed in the warp direction of the fabric |
|
44 |
Defective hemming |
Due to the poor lench device or uneven tension of the lench yarn, two or more lench yarns are not interwoven or interwoven poorly. |
|
45 |
square eyes |
The tension of the local warp yarn is too large during weaving, resulting in block-like style differences on the fabric surface |
|
46 |
Wooden roller wrinkle |
The tension of the grey cloth is not appropriate when it passes through the cloth roll, and the fabric forms warp wrinkles in the middle of the cloth roll. |
|
47 |
Ruffles |
The warp tension at the edge of the fabric is too low or the horizontal stretching is excessive or insufficient, and the edge of the fabric is wavy. |
|
48 |
Hair Point |
The villi are higher than the velvet surface or contained in the villi, in the shape of stars |
|
49 |
Partial velvet |
Two layers of velvet cut from the same roll, one thin and one thick, full width velvet |
|
50 |
Pile |
Inconsistent villus orientation in some areas |
|
51 |
Thick and thin section |
The velvet surface shows regular or irregular sparse, dense, high, and low hair segments. |
|
52 |
Tool Path |
The velvet pile is uneven, with regular or irregular knife marks |
|
53 |
Side support mark |
The temples are poorly matched or adjusted, leaving obvious marks on the fabric |
|
54 |
Stripe |
Strip defects that extend or are intermittently scattered throughout the entire piece (section) and have different shades of color (including cut velvet stripes) |
|
55 |
Wrinkle Print |
Irreversible creases |
|
56 |
Pattern does not match |
The pattern and color are inconsistent with the confirmed sample |
|
57 |
Uneven dyeing |
Improper control of the dyeing process leads to uneven dyeing of the fabric |
|
58 |
Neps |
The cotton knots and impurities on the grey cloth are not completely processed, and the defects appear on the cloth surface |
|
59 |
Deep and shallow defects |
Able to identify various defects on the fabric |
|
60 |
Fish scales |
The suede has fish scale-like patterns |
|
61 |
Missed cutting |
During the cutting process, some pile wefts are not cut off due to reasons such as the guide needle jumping out. |
|
62 |
Last Hit Bar |
The warp strip defects formed by missing weft cutting before and after dyeing and finishing and repairing |
|
63 |
Flannel warp repair |
The warp yarn is broken during the weaving process, and the warp yarn is repaired and the warp is repaired, and then the warp is cut and dyed and finished. |
|
64 |
Wrong weft |
Weft yarns with thick or thin diameter and length of 5 cm or more, tight twist yarns and loose twist yarns are woven into the cloth |
|
65 |
Uneven strips |
Poor weft yarn evenness that can be clearly distinguished from normal yarns when stacked up. |
|
66 |
Weft loss |
There are 3 or more weft yarns woven into the cloth in one shed (including continuous double wefts and weft shrinkages of 5 cm or more in length) |
|
67 |
Double Weft |
Single weft fabric has two weft yarns woven into the fabric in one shed. |
|
68 |
Weft shrinkage |
The weft yarn is twisted and woven into the fabric or loops appear on the fabric surface (including warp loops and loose weft shrinkage) |
|
69 |
Raw Edges |
Due to poor edge shearing or other reasons, the weft yarn is abnormally brought into the fabric (including double weft and missing weft less than 5cm from the edge) |
|
70 |
Cloud Weaving |
The density of weft yarn is regular with sparse and dense yarns in alternating sections. |
|
71 |
Weaving in sundries |
Flying flowers, back silk, oil flowers, leather, wood, metal (including porcelain) and other sundries woven into the fabric |
|
72 |
Extra Weft |
Due to the old weft yarn, the cloth has different colors and 1 to 2 dividing lines. |
|
73 |
Oil Weft |
The weft yarn is oily or contaminated |
|
74 |
Rusty Weft |
Traces of weft stained by rust |
|
75 |
Colorfast weft |
Colored weft yarn that is stained and cannot be washed clean |
|
76 |
Soot yarn |
Yarn contaminated by soot in the air (single layer test is the standard, for dark oil card) |
|
77 |
Hundred-foot |
Twill or satin fabrics lack 1 to 2 weft yarns in a complete weave (including multiple weft yarns) |
|
78 |
Broken Silk |
Broken and fuzzy filaments are woven into the fabric |
|
79 |
Flower throwing |
Due to the damage of the pattern plate (multiple or few holes), the weft yarn is disordered or the weft yarn floats on the cloth surface intermittently. |
|
80 |
Core missing wire |
Long segments of core-spun yarn on the fabric are missing core yarn |
|
81 |
Hair |
The breakage of individual filaments during winding or weaving results in local or scattered fiber end protrusions or a fuzzy appearance in the fabric. |
|
82 |
Driving through shrinkage (printing) |
When the warp yarn is stretched, it relaxes due to unexpected tension, which makes the surface of the fabric show uneven block or strip-shaped stretch marks. |
|
83 |
Brush |
The visual difference caused by the deviation of the direction of the pile lodging or the different degrees of wear of the pile in the weft direction |
|
84 |
Demolition |
The fuzz marks left on the cloth after unpacking and the wiping of the cloth with starch and water |
|
85 |
Rare Weft |
Less than 2 weft yarns within 1cm in the warp direction (two weft yarns in the horizontal direction of satin fabric are counted as one) |
|
86 |
Secret Road |
The weft density within 0.5cm in the warp direction is more than 25% (the weft density is less than 40% and more than 20%) |
|
87 |
Follow-up |
The pile is uneven and has fine and uneven horizontal stripes |
|
88 |
Knife stop |
The velvet surface shows an uneven knife mark in the weft direction. |
|
89 |
Not accurate with flowers |
After the cloth is removed, the pattern is not clear and discontinuous |
|
90 |
Hole |
3 or more warp and weft yarns are broken together or one warp or weft yarn is broken (including 1 to 2 good yarns separated), the warp and weft yarn loops are 0.3cm higher than the fabric surface, and the reverse side looks like a hole |
|
91 |
Cut edge |
Three or more warp and weft yarns in the edge weave are broken together or one warp yarn is broken (including 1 to 2 good yarns separated). Two double-sided yarns are counted as one, and one of three or more yarns is counted as one. |
|
92 |
Jumping flower |
3 or more warp and weft yarns are separated from each other, including a complete weave |
|
93 |
Xi Nong |
The weft density is less than the process standard, which is a "narrowing" phenomenon. |
|
94 |
No docking shuttle |
The warp yarns after the shuttle are not butted |
|
95 |
Lack of velvet |
The velvet surface is partially without velvet and the base is exposed, and the velvet warp is broken by 3 or more strands. |
|
96 |
Short Liner |
The velvet surface has low pile |
|
97 |
Mildew |
Mildew spots (spots) appear on the fabric after being damp |
|
98 |
Core-spun yarn with exposed bottom |
The defect that the outer fiber of the core-spun yarn does not completely wrap the core wire, so that the core wire is partially exposed, or there is no wrapping fiber outside the core wire, so the core wire is completely exposed. |
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Fabric Inspection | Methods for Defect Inspection on Printed and Dyed
Printed and dyed fabric refers to textile fabric that has been processed by printing, dyeing and other processes. It is usually woven into grey fabric first, and then given patterns or colors through printing and dyeing technology. When inspecting printed and dyed fabric, how should its surface defects be inspected?
